Drafting & Sewing Circular Shorts (Split Skirt)

Here’s how I drafted a sewing pattern for Circular Culotte Shorts (aka. Split Skirt), including the pattern, sewing steps, and final adjustments.

Later on I used the pattern to make a split skirt with pockets and an adjustable waistband.

Pattern drafting

Aiming for 100cm circumference at the top including seam allowance (to fit a 90cm hip), and 50cm length excluding the waistband (to be about knee length), the dimensions will be:

• Radius at waist/hip: ⌈100/3.14⌉ = 32cm
• Radius at hem: 32 + 50 = 82cm
• Rise excluding waistband: 25cm
• Crotch depth: 10cm

Prototyping

Pockets will be omitted in this prototype, and the waistband will be exposed elastic to make sewing simpler. (See step-by-step how to sew culotte pants with pockets in another post.)

I decided to print out the pattern so I don’t have to draw it out on the fabric. It printed out about 1cm short on all sides… but we’ll go ahead.

The inner legs were sewn together into tubes.

Then the two legs were sewn together along the rise and crotch, while one leg was turned right way out inside the other leg.

The shorts were turned right way out. It’s ready for the elastic band and hemming.

This elastic felt looser than my usual one so I cut it at 65cm, then serged the ends to make a loop.

The elastic was divvied up evenly onto the skirt’s top, wrong way facing each other. Once sewn, the elastic was turned outwards and top stitched.

Finally, the hem was finished by a thin 3-thread overlock with length set to 0.75. (I didn’t want to reduce the length so I didn’t’ fold to hem it up.) At differential feed of N, it was making a bit of a lettuce leaf effect, so I increased it to 1.3.

And it was complete!

Trying it on, it looks nice from all angles and drapes well – so this 180 degrees in total works well.

Length-wise, the culotte ends just at my knees. The rise is just right when sitting; it could be a couple centimeters longer just in case.

Adjusted pattern & steps

The culotte looks great and fits comfortably, but I just wanted to make two slight changes for my preferred fit:

• 2cm longer rise – especially if the waistband sewn onto it will be an elastic casing instead of a wide exposed elastic band.

• 2cm longer (if roll edging) ~ 5cm longer (if hemming it up) – to make it knee length.

Remade with pockets

This is my final version I made with pockets, and a thick waistband (fabric cut at 102cm x 14cm) with double elastic casing. (See how to sew side in-seam pockets and how to make elastic casings.)

The hem was increased by 2cm so I could finish it off with a 2cm cover stitch.